Zermatt: Under Toblerone's Spell
The iconic Glacier Express dropped us off in Zermatt at sunset. We were beyond excited to finally be in this snowy fairytale village—but nothing could have prepared us for what was to come.
We had booked a very special AirBnb, and had planned much of our trip with respect to it. Since it was on a hill, we left our heavy suitcases at Zurich Central Station and arrived in Zermatt with just a backpack and handbag. Climbing 70 steps in the freezing cold made me question my sanity (and my health), but the moment we reached the apartment, I knew it was worth it.
Well, this was the view from our balcony. I was completely overwhelmed when I first saw it. We had all of Zermatt at our feet. For ten months, I had imagined this moment: my husband and I, sipping coffee in our cozy apartment, overlooking the little European village crowned by one of the most beautiful peaks in the world.
This trip was extra special for both of us for different reasons. My husband saw snow—and snowfall—for the first time, and that too in the Swiss Alps! As for me? Being a long-distance couple, we had never spent time together in Europe during the winter. I’ve always found European winters so homely—the snow, the mulled wine, the Christmas markets. Yet, the one thing that always felt missing was my true home—him.
There is something very captivating about the Matterhorn. Its crooked shape often kept much of it hidden beneath clouds, only revealing itself on a rare sunny day. For the next two days, much of our time was spent calling out to each other from different rooms, asking, “Distoy ka?” (“Is it visible?”). Oh, it was difficult to get out of this beautiful home, but we did! We had planned to ride the stunning Gornergrat railway, which, believe it or not, would take us even closer to the Matterhorn, right into the heart of the Alps.
The day began with a thick blanket of fog, and the train ride to the top was quiet and uneventful. The weather started clearing up once we reached the top of Gornergrat. The Gornergrat railway station is situated at an altitude of 3,089 m, making it the second highest railway in Europe after the Jungfrau. Stepping out into the crisp mountain air, we were greeted by a winter wonderland—freezing cold, yet an absolute paradise for skiers. We had an awesome time walking in ankle deep snow, having snowball fights, and soaking in the beauty of the Swiss Alps.
With a chilled pilsner in hand, we waited patiently for the Matterhorn to emerge from behind its thick veil of clouds. And when it did, wow! Having seen the Himalayas multiple times, I didn’t expect to be so mesmerized by the Swiss Alps. But the Matterhorn is something else—its unique shape demands attention. What made this experience even more special was the sheer proximity. I’ve seen majestic mountains before, but never from this close, and the ease of access to the Swiss Alps makes them all the more tempting and unforgettable. In case you didn’t know, the famous Toblerone chocolate was actually inspired by the Matterhorn’s iconic silhouette. Safe to say, it was worth the wait.
The rest of our stay in Zermatt was spent walking around the charming old town. Since it’s a completely car-free village, it is very walkable, even when covered in deep snow. We explored its little lanes, museums, and the wonderful restaurants and cafes. This was our first time in Switzerland, and we induldged in Swiss delicacies like fondue, Swiss chocolates, Swiss wine, and the best hot chocolate I’ve ever had in my life. Zermatt, in many ways, reminded me of Bavaria (Germany), but one experience stood out—and it’s something I’ll never forget. Every time I instinctively started a conversation in German (force of habit), I was met with a reply in English—without fail. A small but amusing joy for an expat! :)
But Zermatt after sunset? That was something else! The village transformed into a sparkling winter wonderland, beautifully decorated for Christmas and New Year’s. And best of all, I finally got my wish—experiencing a European winter with my husband.
The week we spent in Switzerland was overwhelmingly beautiful, and gave us courage and strength for the next chapter of our long-distance journey. As for my bucket list? It feels lighter than ever. Just when I think I couldn’t possibly love Europe more, another trip proves me wrong. And with each visit, one thing becomes clearer—it would be an incredible privilege if we could one day call Europe our home.